2025-07-18

With roots in Switzerland and a deep appreciation for Champagne, sommelier Peter Tüű brings both international perspective and infectious enthusiasm to the world of sparkling wine. As Hungary’s traditional method fizz gains momentum, he reflects on its evolution, the potential of native grapes, and why sparkling wine deserves a serious place on the table.

What first sparked your passion for sparkling wine, and how did your early experiences in Switzerland and Champagne shape your career path?

Sparkling wine and especially traditional method sparkling wine has always been one of my favourite wine styles, and more and more people (restaurant guests and professionals alike) kept saying that this wine style suits my personality the best. Switzerland is a rich country, with a love of good life, of ‘joie de vivre’ and there is nothing you can’t get your hands on on the Swiss wine market, so champagne was already there for me right at the beginning of my wine studies. However, there can be no doubt that it was my first trip to Champagne that set me on this path.

What do you see as the most important turning points in the recent evolution of Hungarian sparkling wines?

On the one hand the quality of Hungarian wine making in general has improved a lot in the past few decades and that definitely contributed to the evolution of the sparkling wines as well. On the other hand, the appearance of quality-minded Hungarian sparkling wine producers with a clear goal of not necessarily imitating Champagne but to utilize its time-tested methods, processes and steps and apply it to Hungarian conditions, was an important milestone.

Especially since these producers co-operate very closely with the cellar masters (‘chefs de caves’) of esteemed Champagne producers as consulting winemakers and their handprint, knowledge and experience can easily be felt on the end-product. The introduction of the very strict and forward-thinking Etyeki Pezsgő appellation was also an important step towards higher quality and more terroir-focused thinking.

Are there Hungarian grape varieties that you see thriving in sparkling formats, and why?

First of all, the autochthonous Furmint grape has proven to be a very suitable variety for méthode traditionelle sparkling wine, especially due to its high acidity and ability to showcase different terroirs. Hárslevelű seems to show similar qualities, but it seems to work best as a companion to Furmint. It may come as a surprise, but both Olaszrizling and Ezerjó seem to work really well in traditional method sparkling wines – not necessarily as single varieties, not even as main varieties, but as spices or secret ingredients.

As a sommelier and educator, what do you find most rewarding and challenging about teaching people to pair food with sparkling wines?

Champagne and traditional method sparkling wines are extremely versatile when it comes to food and wine pairing. There is a style to suit every flavour, texture and combination, and every classic or modern dish, including the finest steaks and heartiest stews.

Desserts are the only problem area. The basic rule is that the wine accompanying a dessert must be sweeter than the dish itself – there are no exceptions. However, since all champagnes and other traditional method sparkling wines tend to be on the drier side, even the sweetest styles of fizz often fail to harmonise with a sweet dessert. The trick is to taste the fizz you want to serve at the end of the meal first, and then create a dessert to match the wine — not the other way around. I can’t go into the details now, but some of the most unique and mind-blowing combinations of my career came about this way.

What do you think surprises international wine professionals most when they taste Hungarian sparkling wines for the first time?

International wine professionals are really surprised by the quality of Hungarian fizz, by the long road this wine style has travelled in the past 15 years. Whether made from international varieties (mostly Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir) or local grapes (Furmint, Hárslevelű, etc.), Hungarian sparkling wines can be of a very high quality, showcasing the uniqueness of their region of origin.