2025-07-22

At BOR 2025, Andrea Gere will share her perspective on Hungary’s evolving red wine identity—from Villány Franc to indigenous varieties like Kékfrankos. In this interview, she reflects on a decade of building Villány’s flagship brand, the stylistic turning point of the 2000 vintage, and how organic farming has brought unexpected vitality to the vines. With both pride and precision, she makes the case for why Hungary’s reds deserve a place on the world stage.

Ten years on from launching the Villányi Franc brand, how would you describe its current level of awareness and recognition? Has the region achieved the goals you had in mind when it launched?

The goal was to make Cabernet Franc or Villány Franc the first thing that comes to mind when people think of Villány. Of course, when it comes to individual wineries, enthusiasts will probably think of their favourite brands first. However, when considering the wine region as a whole, premium Franc will undoubtedly come to mind.

Through consistent and persistent communication, I feel that we have achieved this goal with many wine consumers and professionals. Whenever Villány appeared at an event, Villány Francs were always the centre of attention, and we would never fail to mention them whenever we talked about Villány as a wine region.

Another important point is that we have developed our own style. This does not mean that there is no need for fine-tuning, but the general direction is clear by now.

You often present your red wines to international professionals who may not be familiar with Hungarian wines. What kind of reactions do you usually get after the first tasting?

It is always interesting to see guests from abroad who are well versed in the international wine world marvel at Hungarian red wines in Villány. However, once they have established the high quality, when we take one step further and tell them that these wines can rival the finest Italian and French wines, their reaction is usually a sceptical smile. It is only when we organize a blind tasting that their eyes really open wide, when the Villány wines prove that they can stand up to the best in the world or even surpass them.

If you had to spotlight one Hungarian indigenous red grape that deserves more international attention, which would it be—and what makes it special to you?

Kékfrankos is a truly versatile variety, from which several wine styles can be produced to a high standard, ranging from fresh rosé and light, fruity red wines to serious red wines. An important advantage is that it is able to express the characteristics of the growing region, and its beautiful acidity also contributes to its individuality.

If I may mention another grape variety that is close to my heart, I would also recommend Fekete Járdovány to those who are interested. This is an ancient variety from the Carpathian Basin that represents a truly unique style. It is difficult to compare it to anything else, but if I had to, I would place it in the triangle formed by Kadarka, Kékfrankos, and Pinot Noir. Its ripeness, fruity and spicy aromas, and complexity have already attracted the attention of many experts.

How do you see the evolution of red wine production in Hungary since the turn of the millennium? What have been the most significant changes or developments?

For me, the 2000 vintage marks a turning point. It clearly reflects the changes that took place in the style of Hungarian red wines. If I compare the Villány wines that I know best, I would say that, whereas in the 1990s our style was more similar to that of Bordeaux, after the turn of the millennium it became more akin to Tuscan wines.

This required changes to grape cultivation, primarily the introduction of strict yield controls. The lower yields resulted in more expressive aromas and greater complexity. 2000 was, of course, an exceptional vintage, capturing the attention of many. They have been eagerly awaiting new vintages ever since, and the presentation of each one is always a major event.

Another important stylistic element was the refinement of tannins, which required higher-quality grapes and skilful oak management. While there were a few excesses in this regard, the situation has now settled down and the dominance of toasted oak flavours is no longer considered desirable. Instead, Hungarian winemakers want the fruit and the terroir to speak for themselves.

You’ve been farming organically at the estate for over a decade. Has it had an impact on any area of the winery that you didn’t anticipate when you started?

Organic viticulture is not just a rational decision. My father’s primary profession was forestry, and a close relationship with nature was essential to him, so after a while it was obvious that we would try organic viticulture. We figured that if all we gained was being able to work more gently in the vineyard, it would be worth it, but if it also improved the grapes and the wine, then it was definitely worth a try.

My father always said that when he had grandchildren, he wanted to be able to walk through the vineyard with them without worrying about them touching the leaves or tasting the grapes.

Today, fifteen years later, we realise that we are not only giving back to the environment, but that the vines have also been revitalised. We have noticed that the plants have developed natural defence mechanisms, such as thicker, tighter skins, which make the grape clusters more resilient. I am glad that we can give something back to nature in this way, given all that we constantly receive from it.