2022-02-18
Wojciech Bońkowski is a wine writer, editor-in-chief of the most widely read Polish wine magazine, and a regular contributor to major international wine publications. He is also a judge for the Decanter World Wine Awards, a Master of Wine student and President of the Polish Wine Trade Association. At the Hungarian Wine Summit, he will present the world of sweet Tokaj wines with leading Hungarian wine expert and educator Gabriella Mészáros. We asked him about the defining memories and future potential of this wine type.
The Hungarian Wine Summit aims to draw more international attention to Hungarian wines. In your opinion what makes Hungarian wines worthy of the attention of foreign customers?
It’s obviously the historical traditions and distinctive styles of Hungarian wine, as well as some outstanding terroirs: the extinguished volcanoes of Somló, Badacsony and Tokaj to name just a few. Combined with the wine culture that is so deeply embedded into Hungarian life, this gives Hungary a major qualitative potential that international wine consumers should absolutely discover.
Many people in the Hungarian wine industry are of the opinion that today’s customers don’t drink sweet wines and with low demand it’s a waste of time and resources to produce them. Do you share their views? Do you see any way out of this predicament?
A falling consumption of sweet wines is a global phenomenon rather than uniquely Hungarian, though of course the traditional importance of the sweet wine category in Hungary makes is particularly relevant. The forecasts are pessimistic for sweet wines and it will be difficult to see a return to higher consumption in the foreseeable future. But as shown for example by Port numbers, a global fall in sales volume needs not mean a fall in value. Premium wines will continue to attract interest. It’s the cheap sweet wines that will (and perhaps should) disappear, but specialities such as Tokaj Aszú will surely remain.
What do you think makes the sweet wines of Tokaj so special?
On a technical level, it is of course the reliable frequency of botrytis and the traditional single berry harvest. No other region in the world can produce botrytised wines of such concentration so regularly. On a personal level, it is the balance and harmony of the best sweet Tokaj wines: a unique sense of cool-climate freshness, a balancing acidity so masterfully crafted that even at 200 grams/l of sugar, some wines can taste almost dry.
If you were to single out one sweet Tokaj wine that you have particularly fond memories of, which one would it be?
I have many great memories but surely one of the most extraordinary bottles I have had the privilege to taste was the 2002 Királyudvar Lapis 6 puttonyos, which was the Csúcsbor at the Pannon Bormustra where I judged. When the wine was served by the waiter, there was absolute silence in the room and then one of the jury members—who spent the previous evening convincing international tasters that we should finally award a red wine—stood up and applauded. On the many occasions I tasted this wines in later years, it remained an unsurpassed example of depth, balance, and sheer quality.
In recent years we have witnessed the strengthening of the sweet Szamorodni category. Which do you think has more potential, sweet Szamorodni or Aszú?
It depends how we define potential, Szamorodni might offer wineries good financial returns and preserve the noble art of botrytis harvest. In terms of absolute quality, there is no debate Aszú wines, with their higher concentration and specific production method, have the obvious potential to produce more impressive, deeper, more ageworthy wines. As the sweet wine market globally continues to premiumise, the category to attract attention will be Aszú. Sweet Szamorodni as a mid-range offering might prove to be a commercial contradiction, though I do enjoy many of the wines and they might serve as door-openers. And I hope more producers make Dry Szamorodni!
You are going to visit Hungary this spring. Is there something you’re particularly looking forward to?
I look forward to discovering regions I am less familiar with, such as Etyek, Mór, or Bükkalja. And to discovering the ideas of the young generation of Hungarian winemakers which are now fully changing the outlook of historical Hungarian winemaking.